Rating of the best ice screws for mountaineering for 2024

Ice screws mean equipment used for belaying on ice decks. Modern models consist of a hollow tube and an eyelet for attaching a carabiner or a guy wire. On the other side of the tool there are sharp teeth that provide screwing of the equipment into the ice.

The story of the "maturing" instrument

Back in Soviet times, groups of climbers used hooks, which were driven into the ice with hammers, as a safety net on the ice cover of the mountains. Such devices included the popular at that time "carrot". True, the tool had significant drawbacks. In addition to the fact that it was difficult even for a physically strong person to score it, one unsuccessful movement could lead to the formation of chips on the ice and, accordingly, the work had to be started anew.

A little later, climbers began to use corkscrews. Thin, with a small cross-section, they could only withstand small loads. And curling into ice continued to be difficult. Developing the technical capabilities of the tools, the craftsmen came to the conclusion that it is advisable to use a hollow tube for twisting into ice. It was necessary to hammer it into the ice only a third of its length, then it was screwed in to the end.

This is how the current ice screws look like. The design was supplemented by only the sharpest teeth on one edge, allowing the tool to be introduced even into the unusually hard ice that forms during the harsh winter. When compiling a rating of the best ice drills for 2024, do not forget that the best of them are rightfully considered those that are most easily screwed into the ice surface.

Modern market

Getting started with the choice of ice axes, you should familiarize yourself with their main characteristics. These include:

• material of manufacture;
• the shape of the teeth;
• polishing;
• tube shape;
• screw handle;
• length.

Material

All current drills of the company - manufacturers are made of high-strength steel. This is necessary in order for the solid material not only to "enter" into the solid snow floor without difficulties, but also to retain its sharpness (keep sharpening) for a long period of time.

But, as with any rule, this has its exceptions, for example, a titanium or aluminum drill equipped with steel crowns.

Most borax are now made from high-strength steel. During the Soviet era, their manufacture was carried out on an industrial scale. Handicrafts of folk craftsmen were no less popular. They were made from titanium “borrowed” at defense enterprises by self-taught craftsmen.

Such tools were the pride of Soviet climbers. There is a legend that they were the main currency at that time, used to exchange equipment with groups of climbers who arrived from abroad.

The main advantage of titanium drills was their lightness. At the same time, it was not without its drawbacks.The instrument reluctantly entered the hard winter ice and quickly became blunt.

Aluminum alloy instruments equipped with crowns made of steel had a tip turned from steel. Its strong teeth keep it sharp. The main aluminum part allows for excellent weight performance.

Teeth and their shape

It is generally accepted to consider the most optimal those products, the shape of the teeth is directed at an aggressive slope. It is also much better to screw in tools, the teeth of which are sharpened inward.

Surface

The smooth, well-polished surface of an ice screw has much less resistance when screwing in than a rough, poorly polished one. Thus, it is precisely polishing that is one of the main, and at the same time, difficult tasks in the industrial production of these tools.

The difficulty lies in the fact that not only the smooth surface should be polished, but also the thread inside the tube and its inner surface. Accordingly, a product with a high-quality professional polish will cost an order of magnitude more expensive than usual.

Tube shape

The best, by right, are those products, the tube of which does not have parallel walls, but walls made by a conical method. Thus, the ice chips pass through the tool as well as possible, in turn, allowing the drill to screw in much easier.

A pen

Most often, manufacturers make two modifications:

Of course, modifications with a handle are more convenient. This is especially important during difficult crossings in high-risk areas. Models without handles are twisted using a special handle that is applied to the instrument. Some climbers do not use a handle at all, but in all fairness, it is not very comfortable.

Length

The size range of ice augers on the market differs from each other. In general, the differences directly depend on the manufacturer. You can consider the main, generally accepted samples of the length of the instruments, such as:

• long - from 20 cm;
• short - less than 14 cm;
• medium - from 14 to 20 cm.

Professional travelers should have tools of different lengths in the kit. This is due to the different intended use of each of them.

Long ice axes are great for summer ice. With their help, in loose ice, it is especially good to make so-called eyelets. These holes are often called Abalakov's eyes (in honor of the climber from the USSR Vitaly Abalakov, it was he who invented this method of fastening). Following this method, two holes are drilled in the opposite direction using an ice ax. Subsequently, a climbing auxiliary rope is passed through them. The most reliable one will be the attachment point that was drilled with the longest ice screw available in the equipment.

Short tools are indispensable in places with a thin layer of ice. So, the ice ax will not be able to abut against the rock until the moment when it is completely twisted. Not to do without short tools and in case of "conquest! Hard ice formed in winter. Providing a sufficiently high strength, they screw into hard ice much faster.

Medium ice axes are basic and therefore considered the most versatile.

Review of the best manufacturers

In order to at least slightly facilitate the choice among a sufficiently large assortment of equipment, you can pay attention to the list of ice augers, which are deservedly considered the best:

• Black Diamond Express;
• Grivel 360;
• Camp Radion;
• Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light;

Black diamond express

The classic design of the ice auger, equipped with a comfortable handle for screwing into the ice, made this model one of the leaders among both Russian and foreign climbers. Pleases the size range of the brand, for convenience, each size is painted in a certain color. You can purchase an ice screw in length:

• 10 cm - red;
• 13 cm - yellow;
• 16 cm - blue;
• 19 cm - gray;
• 22 cm - green.

Each tool has a quality certificate, according to which the entire range of ice augers can withstand a load of 10 kN.

Two holes are conceived for the snap-in of the carbine. The upper one has a purely auxiliary function (used for hanging things, backpacks, tools). The bottom is considered the main one. The insurance is attached to it.

The optimal shape and comfortable handle contributes to extremely high quality screwing in and out of ice. Reasonable size and perfect design results in excellent lugs. The foldable handle allows not only to easily transport the ice screw on the gazebo, but also to remove it effortlessly if necessary.

Those who want to save on weight and price should look at the simplified modification that does not have a handle. True, this will slightly reduce the convenience of twisting the ice screw of this brand.

• versatility;
• the ability to withstand heavy loads;
• wide range of sizes.

• quite high cost.

Grivel 360

The company presents three lengths of its ice augers:

• 12 cm;
• 16 cm;
• 20 cm.

Modifications of different sizes are designated by color marking applied to the handle. Compared to similar products, Grivel 360 products differ in average weight.

The eyelet is small, which is very conducive to twisting. Boers easily fit into small depressions in ice and ice shells. At the same time, provided by the manufacturers, a sufficiently large hole for the carabiner allows, if necessary, to attach two pieces at once.

The qualitative difference is the presence of a long handle. Provided in a foldable design, it can greatly facilitate the screwing process. When disassembled, the handle becomes like a folding large lever, which is also very convenient for climbers.

Grivel 360 ice axes have an unusual reverse thread. This directly contributes to the fact that the drill gets the opportunity to come into contact with ice over large areas. That is, during the snatch, the distribution of effort occurs more purposefully. This in itself guarantees a very secure clamping of the tool, especially when it comes to loose ice.

In order to save money, the company offers to purchase a simpler modification (Helix) - it does not have a folding handle.

• quality material;
• very long handle;
• the presence of a simplified modification;
• reverse thread.

• not detected.

Camp radion

The company produces tools in three sizes:

• 12 cm;
• 17 cm;
• 22 cm.

The handle is color-coded according to size. Equipped with a built-in loop for attaching carabiners .. this makes the model somewhat heavier than analogues. The advantage is that there is no need to use a guy line. So, in the end, we still manage to save weight.

Camp Radion ice augers do not screw into ice as well as the previous two brands. Nevertheless, they are considered quite good. This is facilitated by a long handle that transforms into a good quality lever.

There is an additional hole in the eyelet of the tool that allows you to attach it to the arbor. This avoids its too low landing and obstacles in movement (as in the case of attachment by a guy wire when the ice screw is hanging).

The convenience of screwing in is the ability to hold (insure yourself) with a brace. This is a great way to avoid losing your tool.

The unique shape of the thread is almost the same as that of the Grivel 360. This provides an increase in the strength of the ice screw anchorage (especially important on loose ice).

• low cost;
• sewn-in loop for a carabiner;
• long handle;
• hole for mounting on the gazebo.

• medium screwing capacity.

Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light

The new generation of the familiar Laser is much more improved. The manufacturer offers three sizes:

• 13 cm;
• 17 cm;
• 22 cm.

Ice axes of different sizes are color coded. The aluminum alloy from which the tool tube is made makes Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light modifications one of the lightest on the market. At the same time, the steel crown and teeth, which remain unusually sharp for a long period of time, screw perfectly into the ice.

Small eyelet. The ice screw is comfortably carried on the gazebo. In addition, it can be installed in depressions formed on an irregular ice surface. Lightweight and practical to use, ice screws are extremely easy to screw into the ice flooring.

• strength;
• compactness;
• low cost.

• not detected.

How to install an ice screw correctly

In order for the drill to fulfill its purpose, it is not enough to acquire a brand of a popular brand, the main thing is to correctly install the equipment. Before proceeding with the installation, the dream is cleared of snow and ice irregularities (for this, the ice drill itself is used, more precisely, its blade). The most durable place is selected for installation. The choice is made according to the following criteria, should be almost completely absent:

• cracks;
• air bubbles;
• emptiness;
• frozen stones.

As for the mountain slope, it is customary to distinguish between the three most common ways of positioning an ice screw:

• right angle;
• skew in the direction of the jerk - down;
• lifting in the opposite direction from the jerk - up.

The method of picking up in the direction opposite to the direction of the jerk has come to modern climbers since the days when ice hooks were often hammered. Using innovative devices, the opposite can be said.

Boers can withstand significant loads. At the same time, they should be twisted into ice 10-15 less than the perpendicular to the slope surface. To put it more simply, the drills should be twisted in the same direction with the expected jerk.

It is worth noting that the difference in strength in different installation methods is small. Therefore, you can not waste time and effort in vain and install the ice drill in the simplest way - at an angle of 90 in relation to the mountainside.

note

Even if the ice screw is installed in accordance with the rules, do not forget that under the influence of bright sunlight it can get very hot. The consequence of this is the "thawing" of equipment from the ice surface.

If the sun is shining brightly, even a quality instrument can completely thaw out in two hours. Do not naively believe that with such a bright sun it will be possible to avoid this by sprinkling an ice drill with snow or ice crumbs. These “covers” simply let the ultraviolet rays pass through and it still melts, just later. At the same time, there is a negative side of the snow cover powder. In this case, the climber cannot see the drill itself and, accordingly, he will not be able to really assess the degree of thawing at a particular moment. This lack of control can lead to accidents.

Based on the foregoing, it is recommended not to sprinkle the borax, but to carefully observe their condition. Having noticed thawing of the ice surface around the drill, it is necessary to twist it again.

Choose equipment from trusted manufacturers, this will ensure a comfortable journey, even if it is difficult and unpredictable.